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Tacoma engine RnR 3.4


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#1 nvchris

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 03:27 PM

Hi I bought a 97 Taco that I'm going to do a RnR with a salvaged engine from Japan.

Motor is on the way and was looking for any tips or advice.
Its got an AT and I was wondering what I could/should do with/to the torque converter.

Thanks for any help!

A few pic's
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Chris Porter,

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#2 heybeerman

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:16 AM

Chris,

Sorry I have nothing to add. I do not have any experiance with Tieotas. :-)

You are asking about the torque converter. If the trans was is good working order I would leave it all together and just service it with new fluid and a filter.

Blake
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#3 nvchris

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 09:11 AM

Thanks Blake,

Thats what I was thinking, just a normal service.

Chris Porter,

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#4 nvchris

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Posted 08 March 2012 - 07:17 PM

Well the swap is done. :ya: :ROFL: :thumbsupanim :wubu: :D :wee:

The thing fired right up. :WOW:

So now I have a 97/99 with a fresh engine total cost, truck + parts + motor = $6400 still come out about $1000 less then 99% of the ones I looked at.
And the others had an average of 250,000 miles on them.

Link to the photos; http://s1205.photobu...tectoraid/Taco/

Chris Porter,

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#5 Lve2fsh

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Posted 08 March 2012 - 07:53 PM

Does this mean we will see you at the gold basin outing?
Greg Hedrick (Lve2fsh)
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#6 Hoser John

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 07:56 AM

Old tacos never die---just their owners-coveth both my 86/04 forevermore-John

#7 nvchris

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 09:00 AM

Actually John,
There is a class action concerning the sludging of the 3.4 engine. They are dying daily.
The 3.4 runs hot, this cooks dino oil creating sludge. All the research I've done recommends using a true synthetic oil, an oil cooler and a dual bypass filter system.

Not to mention the frame rust recall where toyota is replacing the entire frame of Tacomas. Trucks are failing safety inspections and end up with a salvaged title in some states. Some good deals on used Taco's coming from the East coast!

These frame problems are with the 96 to 2001 the sludge is a problem of 3.4's is in all years.

Chris Porter,

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#8 garimpo

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 09:25 AM

Chris find a Ams/oil dealer and use their synthetic oil and filters.....good stuff

If it beeps--dig it!! Garimpo

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#9 nvchris

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 12:09 PM

Don,

Thats my oil :). In fact the air filters by Amzoil are the same tech as whats used in the A1 Abrams Tank to protect their engines.
Makes K&N filters look like a screed door.

Chris Porter,

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#10 Johnno

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 07:44 PM

G'Day Chris
Very nice job. I just hit the road, should be at your place tomorrow. I need some repairs on my 1994 Toy Xtra Cab 4x4

John L. Cabassi

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#11 nvchris

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 09:11 PM

Bring it by Johnno, And a few slabs :)

I'll replace parts till it works!

One of the best tools I found is the OBDS reader. Even if you don't work on your cars its great for knowing what repairs are needed before taking it to the shop. It can save you hundreds of dollars.
Cars are run by computers there is an electronic sensor for everything and then some. You would not believe how many connections there are on a modern wire harness. In fact that was the biggest challenge in swapping the motors, going from the 99 to a 97 harness.

Chris Porter,

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#12 Hoser John

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 06:01 AM

Thats why 86(bought new) and 04 no problems and run 1,000 miles at a shot in summer heat in kalif/nevada/utah/wyoming and never a single problem ever-pays to check things out and Consumers Reports are a great aid in the quest for the perfect mining truck-tons a au 2 u 2 -John

#13 Johnno

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 08:59 PM

Chris, thanks for the offer. I would love to bring it up to you. I respect my vehicle, I've constantly maintained everything. But when things went south with the economy, I had to cut back. So the regular oil maintenance, I kept up. But as for the rest, I was hoping it would last. I have a drivebelt that needs replacing, pulley and adjustment pulley. But when you go to that extent, you need to replace the water pump as well. I found all the parts on ebay, complete set.. belt, pulleys, gaskets, water pump for $550.

I've also got a blown CV boot, left hand. I've been pumping it with grease. I also found you could buy a complete CV unit including boot. Take off the wheel, insert the CV unit, $80 for the whole unit. I could do it myself. I'd say the belt, pulleys, water pump might take a day. Don't know what the boot would take.

darn, in the old days, I could strip a Holden FB down and rebuild it in a day. But this new sh#t is confusing.

But I keep nursing it. Hopefully I'll get some spare bucks soon at least to buy the parts. Because I want to get OUT

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#14 nvchris

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 07:37 AM

Johnno,

The water pump/timing belt kit that I put on was $260 from Amazon, OEM parts. $550 seem a bit steep.

For a temp fix on the CV boot try some of the silicon tape.

Chris Porter,

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#15 Johnno

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 08:45 PM

G'Day Chris
Hey thanks for that. I'm going to look into it. I really need my truck fixed, not only is it my fun machine but it's my bread and butter.

You've been a great help

John L. Cabassi

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#16 weaver hillbille

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 08:21 AM

Rock Auto and AUtoPArts daught COM can be a source for parts, price comparisons. SAved quite a few bucks now and again when the dealer wanted an arm and a leg.
I would imagine there's a Toyota discussion board somewhere that's hooked up with a dealer or two- that gives discounted prices( for those times when dealer/OEM is the only source).

I save at least 20% on parts for my Nissan that way, and that's shipped to my door price. THe SAn DIego county dealers are reeally proud of their parts, if you know what I mean.

#17 weaver hillbille

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 08:28 AM

CHris, do the transmission lines from your slush box run up to a tank at the bottom of the radiator? I know on Nissan's they can have issues when the tank clogs up- there's a small filter in there. I htink your truck is fresh enough that you shouldn't have issues there, but another drain/fill of ATF in 500 miles might not be a bad idea/cheap insurance.

#18 weaver hillbille

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 08:34 AM

I'm guessing the sludge issue with the old engine starved the cam bearings of oil causing heating and the fracture. They don't like to be rode hard and put away hot, I guess.

#19 Johnno

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 07:20 PM

Thanks for the head's up Weaver.

Cheers
Johnno

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#20 nvchris

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 05:27 PM

WH,
Yes to the transmission cooler but no filter.

Great thing about the internet is the choices and competition for your $. Dozens of Tacoma forums.

I lean towards the sludge as a heat related/poor maintenance problem. If you've ever been around heavy equipment the rule is to idle for ten minutes before shut down to keep the oil from cooking on the turbo bearings. It's only affects a small % of the engines (and not just toyota).

Yep the B2 cam is the longest oil passage so it is the most common area for a blockage.

Chris Porter,

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